Kismet: A Unique Turkish-Cypriot Dining Experience in Borough Market

London, United Kingdom Aug 30, 2026 ALN: A Turkish-Cypriot meyhane, which translates roughly as "wine house", has recently opened upstairs at the Globe Tavern in Borough Market, south London. This new establishment, Kismet, is generating buzz as one of the most exciting additions to the area in years. For those familiar with the local lore, this is also the location famously associated with Bridget Jones, adding a layer of charm to your dining experience. Borough Market itself is one of London’s oldest and largest food markets, with a history that dates back to the 13th century. It has evolved into a culinary hub that attracts both locals and tourists seeking high-quality food and unique dining experiences.

As you ascend the staircase to Kismet, an old, slightly eerie, flickering TV by the entrance sets the stage for a unique culinary journey. This blend of nostalgia and modernity reflects the ethos of the restaurant, where traditional recipes meet contemporary presentation. Chef Keiran Mustafa, who previously made his mark as the head chef at BiBi, has crafted a menu that pays homage to his family’s homeland and the vibrant community they have established in London. Partnering with restaurateur Dom Hamdy, known for his ventures like Crispin and Bistro Freddie, the duo has created a space that is both chic and delightfully chaotic, embodying the lively spirit of a true meyhane.

During a recent midweek lunch, the atmosphere was lively, with Turkish jazz transitioning into techno, and the open kitchen bustling with activity. The dining area, adorned with dark wood and white tablecloths, features walls decorated with childhood photos of Mustafa, including a nostalgic image of his mother as a waitress. This personal touch adds warmth to the dining experience, inviting patrons to feel a connection to the chef's journey and the cultural heritage that informs the cuisine.

The menu at Kismet is a comforting blend of Turkish favorites, designed to satisfy and delight. Diners can enjoy dishes such as girit ezme (a white cheese spread with walnut, dill, and mint) and sigara boregi (feta rolled in yufka pastry and deep-fried). The grill serves up fragrant beef and lamb köfte and tavuk şiş (chicken kebabs), with generous portions of strained yogurt, chili butter, and olive oil enhancing the flavors. While the dishes are rich and comforting, they are not overly spicy, focusing instead on warmth and satisfaction, making them accessible to a wide range of palates.

One standout dish is the humble atom (strained yogurt) served with warm, pillowy bread, which has quickly become a favorite among patrons. The monkfish, priced at £30, is the most expensive item on the menu but is expertly grilled and succulent, accompanied by more yogurt and chili butter. The lamb neck kuzu şiş is equally impressive, juicy and served with hand-cut fried potatoes reminiscent of home-cooked meals. A side of braised green beans adds a touch of freshness, while a £14 plate of fried liver with onion salad provides an iron-rich option, showcasing the diversity of traditional Turkish-Cypriot flavors.

To conclude the meal, guests can indulge in tiny glasses of tea and sweet pistachio baklava, alongside a less sweet pistachio ice cream that balances the richness of the pastries. This thoughtful dessert selection reflects the restaurant's commitment to providing a well-rounded dining experience. The experience at Kismet is one of indulgence, and diners leave without regret for their overindulgence, often eager to return and explore more of the menu.

Kismet may not fit the traditional definition of a meyhane, and opinions may vary within the Turkish-Cypriot community about its authenticity. Some purists may argue that a true meyhane should focus solely on traditional dishes and the communal aspect of dining, while others appreciate Kismet's modern interpretation and the way it introduces these flavors to a broader audience. However, what is undeniable is that Mustafa and Hamdy have created something unique, marking a refreshing change in Borough Market. With only a year-long commitment to this location, it’s advisable to visit soon before this vibrant dining experience comes to an end. Its presence not only enriches the culinary landscape of Borough Market but also serves as a bridge between cultures, inviting diners to partake in a slice of Turkish-Cypriot heritage.

• Kismet Upstairs at The Globe Tavern, 8 Bedale Street, London SE1 (no phone). Open lunch Weds-Sun noon-2.30pm (3pm Sun); dinner Tues-Sat 5-10pm (9.30pm Tues & Weds). From about £40 a head à la carte, plus drinks and service.